Tuesdays! and Fridays have hundreds and hundreds of people gather at a string of drinking shacks known as Calçadão da Suframa. Some have live music, often forró. One spot is Casa do Terror, a cobwebbed hole-in-the-wall where a shirtless Cearense in a cowboy hat spins old LPâs of boleros and bregas. R$ 20-30 by cab from the centre.
Crocodillo Centro is a dance club with decent music and reasonable drink prices.